There are three methods by which you can choose your target – pin, point, and linear. The choice of each of them depends solely on you. Even experts disagree on the relative merits of these three systems and, in fact, on how best to apply them in practice. But in general, everyone agrees that each of the three methods works best according to the method described below.
With this system, the player draws an imaginary line from his starting position to pocket 1-3.
Bowling, the player in front of the pin draws an imaginary line and focuses on the pocket 1-3
Then he carefully adheres to the chosen line, without taking his eyes off the chosen pocket during the entire run and send of the ball. This type of send is most effective when using a small, fast hook ball or straight ball.
Under this system, the player chooses the board over which he would like to send his ball, or instead selects one or two points on the track. Using a one-point system, when the corresponding point is selected at a distance of 15 to 20 feet on the track, and the player himself orients himself according to his starting position to this point and to the first pin. Then he concentrates on a straight run and sending the ball to the area of the chosen point.
Point method, the player selects a board on the lane along which he would like to send the ball, ignoring the pins, or selects a point on the throw line and the second on the lane
It combines pin and point methods. This system uses all four control points – the starting position, the point on the shot line, the point on the lane, and finally pocket 1-3. Taking a run, the player switches his attention from one point to another.
Linear way, the player chooses a starting position, a point on the throw line, a third point on the track and finally the last point on a pocket 1-3
There are many individual variations, but as you experiment, you will soon find out which method works best for you.
Just consider the following:
1. Each system has its own significant advantages, and it does not matter which one you choose.
2. Choose those that come to you most easily and improve them, bringing them to automatism.
Tom Harnish’s Recommendations
Tom Harnish, a constant participant in many professional competitions, is remembered not because of any particular victory, but rather because of one defeat. In the $ 25K event of the Champions in Akron, Ohio, Harnish was just one frame away from his victory over Dave Davis in the semifinals when he was split 6-7. “That balloon cost me at least 9,000, and at most 21,000,” Tom recalls. “I finished fourth and was content with $ 3,125.”
But this event not only did not shake his self-confidence, but on the contrary, only tempered Harnish’s character. This won’t happen again, Tom told himself. He had no doubt that the next time he faced a similar situation, he would get out of it with honor.
Tom started bowling at the age of twelve and by the time he was fifteen was already playing in the best leagues in Buffalo, New York, near his hometown Tonawond. Tom’s best streak is 796 points; in his best game, he scored 296 points. There is a never-ending debate over the best method for selecting landmarks on a bowling alley. There are three options for your choice. There is the point method (most popular among high-class players), as well as the point and line methods. For those players whose bowling experience is two or three years old, I would recommend trying their hand at the point method. This means that instead of aiming at pins 60 feet away from you, you choose a point that is much closer to you, that is, a spot on the lane that is in line with your chosen target at the pins. If you choose the right point (landmark) and hit it for sure, then you will constantly begin to knock out strikes.
It goes without saying that the point method is of little use if your ball is not rolling in the groove. Your run and send must be worked out so that the ball always follows the same trajectory.
Most of the players who adhere to the point method choose rangefinders as landmarks on the track. Beginners use the second rangefinder on the right side when they want to hit all the pins with one ball (strike). If you take a closer look at the track, you will notice that this rangefinder is located on the tenth board away from the right chute.
Pocket 1-3 is about the eighteenth board from the right chute. This means that if you send the ball to the second rangefinder on the right and it gets there at a given speed, and then passes eight boards, then you are guaranteed a strike. In general, point bowling is a whole science
Other players are reluctant to use rangefinders when targeting because they don’t like them. Still others choose a reference point closer to the line of the throw. It could be a mark or spot on the lane, or one of the arrows in a whole row embedded in the lane 7 feet behind the line of throw. Choose them if you want, but only in such a way that they are not very close. If you select the landmarks even closer to the line of throw, then you will have to tilt your head while aiming, and as a result, the arc described by the ball will be too high. The landmark you choose should not be within 4 feet of the throw line. On the other hand, there are players who prefer to stick to the landmarks behind the rangefinders. I know of pros who choose a specific board at the seam (where the maple and pine boards join) that is 15 feet from the throw line. It should be noted that for most this zone will be too far away.
To determine the most convenient point on the track, send the ball in order to knock out a strike and follow the path along which it moves towards the pins. Does it follow the second rangefinder located on the right side? If it passes, then this will be your landmark. Perhaps the ball will roll on adjacent boards to the right or left (one or two boards) of this rangefinder, then this board will serve as a guide for you. Once you’ve decided on a landmark that suits your sending style, think about how to use it. Concentrate on it. Do not take your eyes off him from the moment of taking the starting position until the completion of the movement. I made it a rule to never take my eyes off the landmark until the ball rolls over it. Stick to this principle, and you will get rid of many problems.
Of course, your landmark will not be the same on every track. When you get on the fast track and the ball-hook no longer obeys you, you need to adjust the landmark you have chosen. Move it one board to the left. If, after several tries, the ball does not enter the pocket, move it one more board to the left. When the track is slow, that is, the ball makes an excessive detour on it, move the landmark to the right. The above description is for the point bowling method. The player chooses only one landmark on the track, and does not even look at the pins. It should be noted, however, that many players use a variant of this system.
One of the modifications is based on the use of not one, but two points at once. The first is usually a single rangefinder, while the second is a point on the same board, but a few feet in front of or behind the selected rangefinder. Players who adhere to this version of the point system believe that it allows them to choose a more correct trajectory for the ball. Although a significant proportion of professionals currently adhere to the point system, and this system is studied in bowling training courses and seminars, the overwhelming majority of players still choose the pins as a reference point. In the pin system, the player aims for pocket 1-3 and forgets everything else. I’m sure the reason why so many people choose the pin system is rooted in the instinctive approach that underlies it. If you were about to hit a tin can with a rock, you would aim and throw a rock at it. The bowling method of bowling is based on the same principles. It may not sound scientific, but such is the nature of man. Kegel method is easy for beginners. It is simple and does not require much concentration. If you are using the point method and your steps are hasty or the swing is sharp, this will significantly reduce the accuracy of the ball you send. If you deviate 1/4 of an inch from the benchmark chosen on the track, then instead of a strike, knock out an 8-10 split. With the pins method, the errors of the run and the send are not so critical.
Line bowling is a combination of pin and point systems. First, the player chooses a starting position in the take-off zone. He then aims at pocket 1-3 and draws an imaginary line from the pocket to his stance in order to imagine the trajectory of the ball. Using a similar technique, some players, during the run, look at a point (on the track) and, having sent a ball, turn their eyes to the pins. Others do the opposite: during the run, they focus on the pins, then, sending the ball, direct their eyes to the landmark on the track.
Different methods of choosing goals and landmarks confirm the fact that preference for one or another style in bowling occurs exclusively on an individual basis. If professionals use the point method or one of its variants, then not every amateur has the necessary experience or temperament to master it. My advice to you is to start with the point method. If it suits you, great; if there is a call if irritation, move on to the next one. Continue experimenting until you settle on the orientation method that suits you best.
The purpose of the point method is to hit the ball on the nearest landmark on the track, which is in line with the pins that you are going to hit. As a rule, beginners choose the second rangefinder on the right side of the track or point as a reference when trying to knock down all the pins with one ball (strike).
Bowling bowling is a system in which the player aims precisely at pocket 1-3. Many newbies use it. Line bowling is a combination of point and bowling techniques. The player throws the ball along an imaginary line from the reference point on the lane to pocket 1-3.